A simple float valve inside a swamp cooler controls the water level. The swamp cooler can overfill if the float valve isn’t working correctly, causing water to escape out the sides or through the overflow release. A leak can waste hundreds of gallons of water each week. That is common because swamp cooler float valves are generally constructed cheaply and barely last a season or two. However, replacing one is a simple and inexpensive project that you can perform yourself.
The price of a new float valve varies considerably, but even the most expensive types are not prohibitively costly. It is recommended to buy a valve that’s in the middle of the price range or above. Low-cost valves are difficult to set to the proper water level and do not survive as long as higher-cost valves.
How to Replace a Swamp Cooler Float with Pictures
Turn off the swamp cooler’s water source. If the unit’s cold water supply line does not have a dedicated valve, shut off the water to the home at the main shutoff or the water meter.
- pliers or wrenches in two sets
- Float valve for replacement
- Activate the Swamp Cooler
To obtain passage to the float valve and water line, remove the access panel on the side of the swamp cooler. More than one panel may need to be removed.
- Turn off the line of the water supply
Remove the nut which connects the water supply to the float with pliers or a wrench to disconnect the water supply line. It’s crucial keeping the valve in place while loosening the nut to prevent the valve from turning. Take out the bar from the float valve after the nut is unfastened.
- Remove the Float Valve that you previously installed
With one pair of pliers, hold the valve in place while the other removes the housing nut. The valve may be rusty, and the nut will not budge if it is old in that position. If this is the case, apply a penetrating lubricant (such as WD-40) and wait a few minutes before attempting to remove it. Pull the valve out of the swamp cooler once the nut has been removed.
- Replace the Float Valve
Replace the old float valve with the new one in the exact location. Ensure that the float goes up and down perpendicularly to the water level after tightening the nut. To keep the float valve from turning, you may need to hold it in place while tightening the nut. If the new valve comes with a gasket, install it according to the valve manufacturer’s instructions or return to the original installation.
- Check to see if the valve is in good working order
Reconnect the float valve’s water supply line. Reconnect the water supply and inspect the nut for any leaks. If you see water leakage, it means that the nut is not securely fastened. Use pliers to secure the nut until the leakage stops.
- adjust the float
Adjust the float until the water level reaches your desired level. Check and ensure that the level of water available is high to cover the pump suction. If it isn’t, the pump will burn out. Install the access panel once again (s). The unit should be ready to use at this point. It is essential to double-check the water level the following day to ensure it is at the right coverage level. If it isn’t, double-check the valve.
How to level a swamp cooler
Place a couple of concrete blocks under the air conditioner to help level it. To balance the air conditioner, place your level on top of it. Attach your chain to the back of the swamp cooler’s edges and stretch it down the side of your house after it’s in a level position.
Aside from the factors above, what causes a swamp cooler to leak? Leaks and Their Causes Pads that leak: Water can sneak through if the pads are wrong or placed crookedly, rather than soaking and evaporating. Water lines that spread around the waterline: The copper pipes that bring water into the swamp cooler can break or have a faulty valve, causing leaking.
Is it also true that swamp coolers are designed to leak?
Some swamp coolers contain overflow pipes if there is too much water in the pan or working through the gears. A drip is caused by condensation and too much water in the system. That is a very normal overflow! The water intake is controlled by a float, which prevents the pump from dealing with too much water.
Reasons why water is dripping from swamp cooler
When you observe water leaking from the roof, especially in the summer, it can be worrying. Where did all the water come from? Cooler for the swamp! Before you get too worked up, keep in mind that your air conditioner might not be malfunctioning or damaged at all.
Swamp coolers work by forcing water through pads to cool them down. A pan, a pump, an afloat, and a source of water are required. Some swamp coolers contain overflow pipes if there is too much water in the pan or working through the gears. A drip is caused by condensation and too much water in the system.
That is a very normal overflow! If that happens now and then, it simply means there is a bit more water in the air conditioner than usual, and it will balance out. If you see it frequently, though, you may have too much water in the pump. The water intake is controlled by a float, which prevents the pump from dealing with too much water.
- Pan for Drainage
The drain pan is another common source of leaks in swamp coolers. It usually contains the water used by the pump to moisten down the pads. This pan may drip if it has a crack or is otherwise damaged. That won’t stop your swamp cooler from working as long as the water supply isn’t disrupted, but it will increase the quantity of water your air conditioner needs.
A patch fixing a rusty Evaporative Water Cooler
Rust is the bane of evaporative coolers’ existence because they spend their entire working lives saturated in water. Despite manufacturers’ and consumers’ best efforts, most coolers eventually acquire rust patches that lead to tiny leaks.
If the rust can progress unabated, you may have to repair it at a high-cost pay or possibly replace it. The easiest way to fix a rusted evaporative water cooler is to catch it early before it becomes a gaping hole.
- Turn off the evaporative Cooler’s power. Drain the pan after turning off the water source. Remove the panels and pads on the outside of the house.
- Clean the Cooler pan with a garden hose and a sprayer; scrub stubborn sediment and mineral deposits with a scrub brush. Clean the Cooler’s exterior, mainly the underside of a window unit. With a paint scraper, remove any loose rust.
- After rinsing the device, ensure that you fill water in the pan after getting closer to the drain. Check if there is any leakage by examining the pan. Ensure that the pan and the device are dry before continuing.
- Ensure that you clean the leakage area using a wire brush or any other cloth. Clean both the inside and outdoor surfaces near the leaks if feasible.
- Wear your safety gloves and use an acetone-soaked cloth or rag to clean the shining metal pieces. Before continuing, let the acetone evaporate.
- Mix a small amount of two-part epoxy on a scrap piece of cardboard using a disposable plastic applicator or a putty knife. As instructed on the label, only mix as much epoxy as you’ll be able to utilize within the product’s working time. Fill any holes the size of a toothpick or smaller with epoxy. Use epoxy putty on places up to the size of a pencil; larger holes will necessitate more advanced repair solutions. Each patch should be roughly a quarter’s size and thickness. Patch all sides of the leak in the pan if possible. Before you continue, let the epoxy cure ultimately.
- Apply a waterproofing sealant to the Cooler pan with a disposable brush. When using the product, follow the manufacturer’s directions. Any remaining metal components on the Cooler’s and panels’ exteriors should be coated with an exterior quality enamel. Allow for thorough drying of the repairs before resuming service with the cooler.
With the correct tools, replacing a Swamp Cooler Float is simple. Depending on how old the device is, the bolts can get rusty and difficult to remove. If the bolt is difficult to extract, WD-40 or anything similar can aid in the removal of a rusty nut.
The position of the cooler is often the most challenging component of replacing a float. A unit on a roof, for example, will be more challenging to access. If the float needs to be adjusted, try not to bend it too far one way or the other, as most require a minor adjustment to function correctly after installation. Always be cautious and, if necessary, seek professional help.